There’s a moment on the Vande Bharat, somewhere past Kalyan, when the concrete jungle thins out and the Western Ghats start creeping into the window, where it hits you that you’re leaving Mumbai behind. Two hours later, we stepped off the train into a city where people worship at ancient temples in the morning and swirl wine glasses by the afternoon. That’s Nashik for you, India’s holiest party town, or its most fun pilgrimage city, depending on how you look at it.
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