Mumbai, the mayanagari, the city of dreams, the city that never sleeps, whatever you may call it, Mumbai might seem chaotic at first, but deep down, it is a mesmerizing mix of cultures and heritage. The city offers unique experiences for different kinds of travelers.
Some come for the colonial charm, some for the Bollywood glitz and glamour, some for the coastal serenity, some for the food, and this guide covers it all.
I’ve been living in Mumbai intermittently ever since I got married, and I’ve been exploring the city since then. In this blog post, I’ll share all the places I visited on my first trip to Mumbai that gave me a good idea of the city, its culture, and its many sides, from the most polished localities to the rawest places.
This is my exact 5-day guide that I followed to explore the city for the first time, but you may use it however it fits your trip length. Moreover, if you need help planning your trip, you can reach out on my social channels or email.
Day 1: Arrival and Exploring Bandra’s Gems
On Day 1, we flew from Delhi to Mumbai and decided to keep it light and explore the areas near the airport. After landing around noon, we headed to Bandra, a charming suburb known for its vibrant street art, historic churches, and Bollywood influence. I have a separate blog post with more details about our day but here’s a summary of everything we did on Day 1.
Bandra Recommendations
Our first stop was Bandra Fort, a.k.a. Castella de Aguada, a 17th-century Portuguese fort overlooking the shimmering Arabian Sea. Although there’s not much left of the fort, you can still spot some ruins by the beach. To reach the beach, you’ll have to pass through a Koli village, or fisherman’s village. We hung out here for a while, taking in the amazing views of the iconic Bandra-Worli Sea Link.
Next, we headed to the Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, a 100-year-old hilltop Roman Catholic church in Bandra. The church’s Gothic Revival architecture stood out both inside and out, and we got a stunning panoramic view of Bandra’s coastline from the compound.
On the way to Juhu, we drove past many Bollywood celebrity homes, more like mansions, like Amitabh Bachchan’s Jalsa and Shah Rukh Khan’s Mannat. We were surprised to see the crowd gathered outside these houses, hoping to catch a glimpse of their favorite stars and secretly wishing to see them ourselves 😛.
Juhu Recommendations
For lunch, we stopped at Prithvi Café, located within the famous Prithvi Theatre, an iconic cultural hub of Mumbai. Although we didn’t have time to watch a play, I highly recommend doing so if you have time. Their outdoor café offers light finger food and beverages. We tried their pesto pasta, kebabs, and nachos, and loved every bit of it. This café is a favorite among actors and artists, so don’t be surprised if you spot a celeb quietly enjoying a coffee.
Lastly, we headed to Juhu Beach to catch the sunset. The beach was bustling with hundreds of people, enjoying the fresh sea breeze with chai in one hand and chana jor garam in the other. But we were too tired to wait for sunset, so we walked along the beach for a while, enjoyed some freshly brewed tea with a corn cob, and headed back to our hotel in Fort, the Grand Hotel.
Stay Recommendation: Grand Hotel, Fort (Fun fact: this hotel is a popular movie location)
Day 2: Colonial Mumbai and Marine Drive
Day 2 was all about exploring the colonial quarters of Mumbai, so lots of walking in the sun and ending the day enjoying the soothing breeze and a beautiful sunset view by Marine Drive.
Breakfast at Cafe Excelsior
When in Mumbai, eat like a Mumbaikar. So we kick-started our day with a hearty breakfast at one of Mumbai’s famous Irani cafés, Cafe Excelsior. The café served classic dishes like bun maska, keema pav, and Irani chai. We relished anda bhurji and keema pav with piping-hot Irani chai, then headed out to explore Fort.
Exploring Fort
The name “Fort” comes from Fort George, built in the 18th century during British rule for defense purposes. However, the fort was demolished in the 19th century as trade and commerce flourished in India. Today, only a fragment of the wall remains, offering a glimpse into the city’s colonial past.
Fort is one of the most popular spots among tourists since it’s filled with iconic attractions, from the Gateway of India to Marine Drive. What I loved most is that the entire neighborhood is walkable, and every turn reveals something new, a historic building, a bookstore, or an eatery. Here are some iconic spots we came across while exploring Fort on foot:
- Flora Fountain, a historic landmark amid Art Deco buildings.
- Kala Ghoda, known for its art galleries and murals, as well as quirky cafés and boutiques.
- Rajabai Clock Tower at Mumbai University, an iconic Gothic-Venetian structure reminiscent of London’s Big Ben.
- Kitabkhana, a local boutique bookstore in a historic building with multiple levels of bookshelves and a cute café.
- Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, formerly the Prince of Wales Museum, where you can spend time browsing art, sculptures, and artifacts from India’s rich past.
- Street Books Corner near Flora Fountain, where towers of books covered in plastic blue sheets come out like clockwork at 10 a.m. every day.
Taj Mahal Palace Hotel
After exploring Fort, we were quite hungry and ready for a satisfying lunch. We tried to make lunch reservations at the legendary Taj Mahal Palace Hotel but couldn’t get through to the hosts. So we decided to walk in and see what our options were.
We wandered through the hallowed halls of this heritage property, which first opened in 1903. History buffs will love that the lobby hallways are lined with interesting artifacts and photographs, including old dining menus from more than a hundred years ago.
Lunch at Shamiana
For lunch, we chose Shamiana at the Taj. We were able to get a table without a reservation, although the place was busy, and I’d recommend calling ahead. We had a delicious plate of fish and chips with lemon aioli, along with a couple of interesting cocktails that caught our eye. We were expecting to spend a lot on our Taj dining experience, but surprisingly, the bill was under 2,000 INR (as of 2021, so be sure to check the latest pricing).
Gateway of India and Ferry Ride
With our tummies full, we walked over to the Gateway of India, just a stone’s throw from the Taj. This monumental arch was built to commemorate the arrival of King George V and is easily accessible from CST station, just walk up to one of the many cab drivers yelling, “Gateway, Gateway, Gateway.”
We strolled around, soaking in the sights and sounds that might once have greeted important figures of the British Raj as they made their way through this symbolic ceremonial entrance. We also paused to admire the majestic statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, standing tall and proud, overlooking the Arabian Sea like a vigilant guardian.
Next, we hopped onto a ferry for a quick ride and breathtaking views of Apollo Bunder. It was fascinating to see the majestic navy ships anchored nearby and nimble speedboats whizzing past us. The whole experience took under an hour and was very budget-friendly at 70 INR per person.
Girgaon Chowpatty and Marine Drive
As the sun began to set, we made our way to Girgaon Chowpatty, a famous beach that is still relatively well maintained. The golden sands were buzzing with activity, families enjoying the cool evening breeze, children building sandcastles, and vendors offering an array of local delicacies. We couldn’t resist sampling the famous bhel puri, a delightful mix of puffed rice, tangy tamarind sauce, and fresh vegetables that perfectly captures the vibrant flavors of Mumbai street food.
As the sky turned orange and pink, the city skyline provided a stunning backdrop, making it the perfect spot to witness the day’s end.
Next, we hopped into a cab and headed south to Nariman Point, a bustling hub of swanky offices and upscale establishments. As night settled, we strolled along Marine Drive, affectionately known as the Queen’s Necklace for its glittering lights along the shoreline. Despite the late hour, the iconic promenade was crowded, locals practicing yoga, couples walking hand in hand, and people simply sitting by the sea. We sat there in silence, mesmerized by the rhythmic crashing of the waves against the inky darkness of the Arabian Sea.
Fun fact: the four-legged concrete structures lining Marine Drive are called tetrapods. They were introduced in the late 1990s, and each one weighs about 2 tonnes and cost around 5,000 INR at the time.
Day 3: Markets, Spirituality, and Matunga
By this day, we had covered all the major tourist spots in the city, so it was time to let the local (my husband) take the lead and plan the day. I wanted to visit his college, and paired it with some popular neighborhoods nearby. Matunga was one that’s known as the hub of the best South Indian restaurants in Mumbai, along with a few other local favorites. Here’s all the spots we visited on Day 3:
- Asiatic Library: A heritage library building with grand columns, often seen in Bollywood movies, was one of the main reasons we decided to visit. However, it’s not something I’d personally call a “must-visit.” One funny thing to keep in mind if you’re planning to visit: don’t wear shorts, this applies to both men and women. We were called out for it and were almost denied entry because of the dress code..
- Crawford Market: A bustling market housed in a colonial-era building. Browse stalls selling everything from fruits and spices to quirky knick-knacks. If you love street photography, the vibrant chaos here will be a treat.
- Haji Ali Dargah: Located on an islet connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway, this mosque and dargah is both a religious site and an architectural marvel. Walk along the causeway during low tide to reach it and enjoy the Arabian Sea surrounding it.
- Worli Koli Village: Take a detour into one of the oldest fishing settlements in Mumbai. It offers a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the Koli community. Plus, if you hike up to the Worli fort, you’ll get a beautiful view of the Bandra-Worli sealink.
- Matunga cafés: Known for South Indian cafés that have been around for decades. Grab a steaming dosa and filter coffee at places like Madras Café or Ram Ashraya to end the day with a culinary delight.
Day 4: Nature therapy and Bollywood Dreams
Breakfast at Café Mondegar
On Day 4, we headed to Café Mondegar for breakfast, fondly known among locals as Mondy’s. This iconic family-owned spot is located at the start of Colaba Causeway and was established in 1932 as an Irani café. The food was great, and we had a wonderful time using the jukebox, the first of its kind in Mumbai. You can read all about our experience here.
Sanjay Gandhi National Park and Kanheri Caves
After breakfast, we headed north by cab to Sanjay Gandhi National Park, Mumbai’s very own national park. It’s also the world’s only national park surrounded by a bustling metropolis. We got our tickets at the entry checkpoint and began our visit with a hike up to the Kanheri Caves, a remarkable collection of 109 rock-cut temples, monasteries, and prayer halls. It felt amazing to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and soak in the rich Buddhist heritage preserved here for more than a millennium.
Sanjay Gandhi National Park also has mini safaris, boat tours, and toy train rides. We chose to end our visit with a relaxing self-guided boat tour, paddling a two-seater vessel on the clear waters of Vihar Lake. You can read all about our day in this guide.
Goregaon Film City Tour
Since we were already in the Borivali/Goregaon area in northwestern Mumbai, we decided to make the most of our time by heading to Dadasaheb Phalke Chitranagari, more commonly known as Film City. To save time, we took a cab from SGNP, and booked tickets online for the evening slot. The assembly point was at the staging area to board the large tour bus with our guide, who walked us through the history of the 520-acre facility. Being true-blue Bollywood fans, we were thrilled to see the shooting locations of some of our favorite films, including Sholay and Don. You can read all about our experience here.
Day 5: Powai’s Urban Oasis
Rooftop Breakfast
On Day 5, we ventured into Powai, an upmarket residential area that showcases some of Hiranandani’s finest work, from swanky office buildings with rooftop restaurants to towering residential complexes and the prestigious IIT Bombay.
We started our day with brunch at a rooftop restaurant called Yuhi Lounge, located within Supreme Business Park. The lounge’s ambiance was enhanced by views of the Hiranandani area and the surrounding mountains, creating a serene backdrop for our meal. The café also has several cute spots for selfies and Instagram-worthy photos, which we definitely took advantage of, while enjoying our delicious chicken pink pasta, paired with a refreshing mojito and a classic piña colada.
Powai Lake
We then headed to the famous Powai Lake, nestled in the heart of the neighborhood. I was secretly hoping to catch a glimpse of its resident crocodiles, but the afternoon heat had other plans, and they wisely stayed hidden from the sun.
Nevertheless, the lake didn’t disappoint. I spotted plenty of birds around the water, and the view itself was absolutely beautiful. What struck me most was the contrast between the calm waters and the towering skyline of Powai surrounding it, a little pocket of nature amidst the city’s hustle and bustle.
Central Business Avenue
Next, we strolled along the bustling Central Business Avenue in the Hiranandani Gardens neighborhood. Lined with financial firms, upscale galleries, and chic restaurants, the avenue buzzed with activity, blending commerce with urban leisure. After soaking in the energy, we found ourselves at Aromas Café & Bistro, a cozy spot perfect for a midday retreat. The eggs benedict we ordered were a delight, perfectly poached eggs with creamy hollandaise sauce atop warm, buttery English muffins. As we savored our meal, we couldn’t help but people-watch, observing the eclectic mix of professionals, families, and visitors enjoying their day.
Dessert
To round off the day, we crossed the street to Poetry by Love & Cheesecake, a charming patisserie with a cozy ambiance. We couldn’t resist indulging in their offerings. Sharing a luscious tiramisu and a rich blueberry cheesecake, we savored every bite and ended the day on a sweet note.
Travel Tips for Mumbai
- Getting around: Use local trains, taxis, or Uber to commute, but be prepared for crowds.
- When to visit: October to March offers pleasant weather for sightseeing.
- Shopping: Explore Colaba Causeway and Fashion Street for souvenirs and budget shopping.
That wraps up your Mumbai adventure, Meenakshi. From beaches and street food to art and history, Mumbai offers an unforgettable experience for every traveler. 🌆
