The first question they ask you in New Mexico isn’t “table for how many?”, it’s “red or green?” Get it wrong and you’ll just look confused; answer “Christmas” and you’ll get a knowing nod. That single question tells you everything about this state: here, chile isn’t a topping or a side. It’s the whole personality. It’s the official state question (yes, really), and it’s the thread that runs through nearly every plate you’ll eat.
